Hiking Around Lake Chapala
Cerro Chupinaya, mountain trails above Ajijic and the views over Mexico's largest lake that most visitors never see.
Most visitors to the Ribera de Chapala stay at lake level — the malecón, the market, the restaurants on the waterfront. The mountains directly behind Ajijic remain largely their own. This is where the real hiking is, and from up there the view of Lake Chapala — the largest natural lake in Mexico, stretching 77 kilometres across — is something you do not forget.
Cerro Chupinaya
Photo: Cerro Chupinaya / Google Maps
The most significant hike in the area and the one with the highest payoff. The summit sits at approximately 2,900 metres — nearly 1,400 metres above the lake. The trail begins at the edge of Ajijic and climbs steadily through pine-oak forest for three to four hours. The summit view on a clear morning takes in the entire length of the lake and, on exceptional days, the volcanoes of Jalisco. This is a serious mountain hike. Start before 7am, bring water for five litres, and do not underestimate the altitude gain.
Insider Tip
The trail to Chupinaya is not marked. Go with a local guide your first time — the paths fork repeatedly and the consequences of getting lost at altitude are serious. Nataly can arrange this.
“During the rainy season, the trails are much more beautiful.”
The San Juan Cosalá Trail
A shorter, more accessible loop that begins near the thermal pools at San Juan Cosalá and climbs into the hills behind the village. Two to three hours return, with good views of the western lake. The path is better maintained than Chupinaya and achievable without a guide. Best in the early morning when the light comes across the water from the east.
Insider Tip
Start at 7am and you will finish the climb before the heat builds. The thermal pools at the trailhead are the correct way to end the walk — arrive back sweaty and get straight into 37°C water.
“Exelente place to relax and enjoy nature the accept credit cards so you don't have to carry a lot of cash but still you should have some mexican pesos to pay for small items”
Walking the Lakeshore
Not all walking here requires altitude. The lakeshore between Ajijic and Chapala town — roughly 8 kilometres — can be walked in under two hours along the malecón and informal footpaths. The light on the lake at 7am, when the fishing boats are still working and the mountains behind are purple-grey, makes this one of the most beautiful walks in western Mexico.
Insider Tip
Walk east to west in the morning, west to east in the afternoon. The light direction changes the entire character of the walk — the morning light is on the mountains, the afternoon light is on the water.
Photo: Maya Alexa G. Romero / Unsplash
“People come here for the lake and never look up. The mountain is what puts the lake in perspective. You cannot fully understand where you are until you have seen it from above.”
— Nataly, ANANA Ribera Concierge
Nataly can arrange guided hikes up Cerro Chupinaya and recommend the best routes for your fitness level and the time of year.
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